The dilemma of wine sales versus value
Ratings Yes, taste, and liking what you like, is subjective. What is not always appreciated is how finding great wines does not necessarily need to cost a lot. One of my favourite wines of all time, Featherstone’s Black Sheep Riesling (a vibrant, dry white with plenty of honey and acidic fresh apple flavour – perfect for Thai curries and pork dishes), is only $18.95. It’s local, delicious and a great price compared to many others of its quality. Separating out the wines that present the best value is the mission of Executive Spirits and Wine’s value index. We use an unbiased and brand-agnostic quant system to choose the best wines to drink for a reasonable price.
The folks at the LCBO must be in the mood for summer based on the number of rosé wines in this release. Certainly nothing wrong with that. The quality and popularity of rosé (best expressed through T-shirt slogans) should lead you to explore Provence, France (it’s ubiquitous there), although other regions in Italy and even Ontario are creating nice fruity and refreshing expressions without being cloyingly sweet. Unfortunately, none of them made our best value list.
Of the 124 wines released this time, 91 (or 73.4%) qualified for the value index. The average critic score rose from an average of 89.70 to 90.04 while the average retail price rose substantially (15.4%) to $35.45. Don’t worry, it’s not inflation. The LCBO release featured far fewer wines from Spain (known to produce mass quantities of good but cheap wine) and more from California, where their popular wines of craftsmanship fetch a premium. New world wines – and two Canadian wines of distinction – were well represented, showing once again how far some developing wine regions have come over the past few decades.
RELEASE HIGHLIGHTS BOTH THE VALUE AND OPULENCE OF CANADIAN WINES
Best deal of the release
Emiliana Novas Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, CHILE ($15.95, 90.3 points)
This wine comes by way of an organic and biodynamic winery in the middle of the alluvial soils of Maipo Valley. From an acclaimed 2018 vintage, its cool-climate growth presents a medium body with bright, fresh red fruit, black current and hints of herbs and spice. Drink now with burgers and red meat off the barbeque. Read the profile.
Best value wines
New world wines continue to dominate our list of best values at the LCBO. The five selections – two whites from Canada and New Zealand and three reds from South America – create a pleasant yet diverse offering for every occasion. From the outdoor barbeque to drinks after a long work in front of the computer screen, you’ll find a great-tasting wine that suits your preference.
v Tawse Limestone Ridge-North Estate Bottled Riesling 2017 ($21.95) – Canadian
v The Hunting Lodge Expressions Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($19.95)
v Arboleda Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($19.95)
v Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2018 ($20.95)
v Finca La Escuela La Grava Malbec 2017 ($24.95)
Smart luxuries
As a special bonus, this release offers six highly rated wines at reasonable prices to tuck away in the cellar for that special meal or occasion with friends once we’re all back together.
v Muddy Water Skin Ferment 2019 ($29.95)
v Quinta do Covão Reserva Touriga Nacional 2016 ($33.95)
v Tesch Karthäuser Riesling Trocken 2018 ($34.95)
v Hartford Court Chardonnay 2018 ($39.95)
v Brittan Vineyards Basalt Block Pinot Noir 2015 ($41.95)
v Blue Mountain Reserve Cuvée Pinot Noir 2017 ($48.95) – Canadian
A few more for the cellar
The three top-scoring wines (a tie at 93.67 points) were two reds from Portugal and California and a sparkling wine from Rheinhessen, Germany. Yes, the Germans make traditional method sparkling at a better price than French Champagne.
v Quinta do Covão Reserva Touriga Nacional 2016 ($33.95)
v Trefethen Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($68.95)
v Raumland Cuvée Marie-Luise Brut Sparkling 2013 ($69.95)
Other than the top value of the release from Chile, here’s a list of other well-rated wines under $18 that will help you restock your wine cabinet. Summer is not just for white wine anymore.
- v Château Camplong Grande Réserve Corbières 2018 ($14.95)
- v d'Arenberg The Stump Jump Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2017 ($15.95)
- v Escudo Rojo Reserva Chardonnay 2019 ($17.95)
- v Sister's Run Old Testament Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($17.95)
- v Hacienda López de Haro Crianza 2017 ($17.00)
Discover amazing wines from here in Canada