Introduction to Irish Whiskey
Scotland has over 150 distilleries, most of them long established for hundreds of years with a rich fascinating history that’s built into their product marketing. In stark contrast, by 2013 Ireland’s share of distilleries had dwindled due to neglect to a low of three major centres owned by large multi-national companies: New Midleton, Bushmills and Cooley. Fortunately, entrepreneurs have since entered the scene to create new production facilities, new tourist destinations and new brands on even distant shelves. Customers across Ontario now have a larger choice than just Bushmills or Jameson. And, in return, the faithful have responded by making Irish whiskey one of the fastest growing spirit segments.
The last five years has witnessed an immense resurgence in independently owned and distilled Irish whiskey brands, such as Tullamore Dew, and newer upstarts like Dingle, Writers’ Tears, The Sexton and Proper No. Twelve. Where the industry once teetered on the edge of survival, Ireland now boasts 32 distilleries (as of December 2019, according to the Irish Whiskey Association). Their products have gained hip status after being targeted to a younger drinker, which is helping to drive popularity for these smoother-tasting whiskeys, especially in Asia.
However, despite new brands entering the market, Jameson remains the best-selling Irish whiskey in the world. Tullamore Dew ranks second (based on sales volume), leapfrogging Bushmills, while MMA fighter Conor McGregor’s Proper No. Twelve has risen to fourth, even over other more familiar brands, such as Kilbeggan, Powers, Teeling, Redbreast and The Dubliner.
Ireland’s producers are anticipating 6.3% annual worldwide growth until 2023 (according to IWSR drinks market analysis), compared to Scotch whisky’s annual forecasted growth of only 1.6%. Irish whiskey’s popularity is also almost doubling the Facebook-driven demand for U.S. bourbon (at 3.9% growth). With only a 2% share of the world whisky market, Ireland is well-suited for its huge potential for growth.
Irish whiskey’s easy-drinking style is derived from its production. Most Irish pot still whiskey is distilled three times, while most (but not all) Scotch whisky, is distilled twice. Peat is rarely used in the malting process, meaning Irish whiskey has a smoother finish as opposed to the smoky, earthy overtones common to notably Islay-area scotches. The notable exception is with Connemara Peated Irish Malt (double distilled) whiskey from the Cooley Distillery.
The whiskey-making process (covering the four main types of permitted Irish whiskey styles) is strictly regulated. Key laws defining Irish whiskey and its production were established by the Irish Whiskey Act of 1980 and are relatively simple compared to those for Scotch and Bourbon:
• The spirit must be distilled and aged in Ireland.
• It must be distilled to an alcohol-by-volume level of less than 94.8% from a yeast-fermented mash of cereal grains in such a way that the distillate has an aroma and flavour derived from the materials used.
• The product must be aged for at least three years in wooden casks.
• If the spirits comprise a blend of two or more such distillates, the product is referred to as a “blended” Irish whiskey.
As with other whiskies, the distilled product is initially clear and only attains its golden colour after being aged in one of a variety of wooden barrels (such as bourbon, sherry or port casks). The longer the aging, the darker the colour typically gets.
Several types of whiskey are common to Ireland, including those referred to as single pot still, single malt, single grain, and blended. The Irish Whiskey Act of 1980 does not actually contain a definition of the terms “single malt Irish whiskey” or “single grain” so the exact definitions between these terms may vary substantially between producers.
Although the taste of Irish whiskey can vary widely, attributable to the many variables involved with any form of spirits distillation and aging, the profile of Irish whiskey tends to be narrower than with scotch. In researching this piece, a group of four whisk(e)y enthusiasts sampled a range of brands and styles (via blind tasting) and ranked them in order of preference to help provide a better understanding of how some of the brands available in Ontario differ.
1. GREEN SPOT Single Pot Still
(Mitchell & Son) 40%, 750 mL bottle, $89.95
LCBO #667071 Triple Distilled
2. TULLAMORE DEW Blended (Grant & Sons) 40%, 750 mL bottle, $38.45 LCBO #71746
3. WRITER'S TEARS Copper Pot Still Blend (Writers’ Tears) 40%,
700 mL bottle, $52.95 LCBO #13057
4. BUSHMILLS MALT 10 YEAR
Single Malt (Diageo, Old Bushmills) 40%,
750 mL bottle, $50.75 LCBO #131870
5. BLACK BUSH Blended (Diageo, Old Bushmills) 40%, 750 mL bottle, $38.95
LCBO #61374
6. JAMESON Blended (Pernod-Ricard, Irish Distillers) 40%, 750 mL bottle, $36.95 LCBO #10157Triple Distilled
7. KILBEGGAN Blended (Beam, Cooley) 40%,
750 mL bottle, $36.95 LCBO #334048







